Sunday, December 27, 2020

Birds of a Feather Reimagine Sichuan Tasting Menu

Reimagine Sichuan flavors at Birds of a Feather with their first-ever tasting menu. I've been a fan of Chef Eugene See's contemporary and European take on Sichuan cuisine since Birds opened and now he has taken it to the next level with some really stunning and elegant dishes that knocked us off our feet. 
Leave your tongue numbing mala expectations at the door. The Reimagine Sichuan menu ($89) showcases the myriad of flavors- salty, aromatic, bitter on the individual plates that are even more refined than the usual communal menu at Birds. There is even a curated wine pairing menu which was an absolute delight, featuring a small batch Telmont Grand Reserve Champagne, Pouilly Fuissé Domaine Cordier Chardonnay, Château Mangot Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (our absolute fav), and a surprise cocktail to be paired with desserts, all for just $60. 
The seven-course gastronomic journey begins with the Homemade Pickled Vegetable Focaccia, served alongside a bright, salty Sichuan 碎米芽菜 pickled mustard green butter. The humble preserved vegetable is full of umami- very similar to kombu or preserved olive vegetables. We tried our hardest to persuade Chef Eugene to bottle this! The focaccia was also an amazing slice with an all rounded crisp and a fluffy center. 
Next, Chef Eugene presents a rotating Bird’s Snack which spotlights the Sichuan burnt chili. A thin chewy ravioli made from gyoza skin is filled with a mix of burnt chili eggplant and foie gras. The spice was very mild and slightly tingly, and further balanced with an earthy celeriac purée. 

Saturday, December 19, 2020

Lerouy

Michelin star dining is quite pricey in Singapore unlike in US and Europe so i'm always happy to find a well-priced one- Lerouy is one of the few and they do not stinge on the experience. There's no stuffiness or snootiness at this modern French restaurant by Chef Christophe Lerouy. At Lerouy 2.0, their industrial-chic space was anything but cold as 2 loops of organically shaped counters wind round the open kitchen and diners get a full view of the precise preparation of each dish.
We were in for a surprise for our 7-course grand lunch ($78) with no inkling of what's to come, given the purposeful omission of a menu. The omakase style allows Lerouy to present a mysterious seasonal menu, which adds to the excitement of dining here. 
Four tapas appetisers and petits fours supplement the courses. A crunchy mille feuille style of Bibeleskaes potato with fresh cream and Alsace bacon was the opening act. Followed by a series of refreshing acidity in the lentils with smoked herring and horseradish on a cracker; a lightly spiced Carabinero ceviche with pickled mioga ginger and calamansi espuma, and ending with a Japanese style Asian Beef Tea made using a Japanese dashi base and a touch of keffir lime. 
Next, a generous baby sourdough loaf which was so darn good. Lovely crust with a fluffy interior, the bread came served with 4 butters- regular, beetroot, seaweed and charcoal. The beetroot was surprisingly our favorite with a touch of sweetness and light earthiness. 

The rootedness in French classical cooking continues to present itself in the meal, but the flavors are anything but traditional. The typical buttery richness is balanced with acid and herbs in most dishes. Actually i wouldn't be surprised if acid is the base of the meal. 
Japanese scallops with dashi jelly, Kaviari caviar, green shiso ice cream and a touch of yuzu kosho to brighten up the dish. I consider this quite a bold dish, given that the accompaniments could easily overpower the delicate flesh but somehow the components worked well together and a daring dish was born. 

Saturday, December 12, 2020

South-East Asian reinvented at Botanico and Bee's Knees

South East Asian cuisine is often thought of as cheap street eats but at Botanico and Bee's Knees, the talented young Head Chef Sujatha Asokan elevates comforting familiar flavors into finessed plates that explores history and heritage. The 2018 World Gourmet Summit Female Rising Chef of the Year isn’t afraid to feed diners the pungent fermented prawn paste (hae gor) or sneak in some beef tongue in the tacos but trust me, you’ll eat anything she puts on your plate. 
We started at the casual Bee's Knees at level one with some cocktails and bites. You'd regret not getting the Spicy Duck Loaded Fries ($17) with golden thick-cut fries generously loaded with handfuls of smoked duck chunks and liberally drizzled with mayonnaise, mozzarella and a zingy Sriracha cream. The messy rich, umami heat is best paired with an ice cold beer.
Chef Sue also put a SEA spin on her New York-style fiery Shrimp Pizza ($30). The pie is made in-house and stretched a la minute, and has a slightly chewy texture and crispy bottom. This wicked one is made with a squid ink garlic aioli base, topped with tiger prawns, mozzarella and Parmesan, then finished with a special spicy chili dressing made with palm sugar, chilli, garlic and lime juice, and coriander. Man it was addictive though I warn that the flavors are gonna stick around the whole night. 
Check out the Beef Tongue Tacos ($18), a Vietnamese version served on baby bok choy boats with jicama slaw and cashew cream. 
Now now, this Australian beef tongue is brined for 48h and sous vide for another 18 to give it that super soft texture. It's grilled in the Inka charcoal oven before served. I loved the tanginess of the jicama slaw which composed of pickled bokchoy, ginger flower and lemongrass, and toasted rice powder. Super fresh flavors in this one. 

Saturday, December 5, 2020

Cut by Wolfgang Puck

"Oh we're just here for a regular dinner", i told the server at CUT, without fully realizing the burn of our plastic at the end of this regular dinner. 
Well tbh i knew a meal at CUT by Wolfgang Puck is going to be a tad pricey, which is why i thought i scored a deal with their early 3 course dinner at only $95 per person. But well, we do love a cocktail to start and wine pairing also seemed like the best way to enjoy their beef selection and possibly upgrading the cut of meat to something like a filet mignon or ribeye... and yea.
Could i get a better steak elsewhere for cheaper? Or a better dining experience? Likely yes. Jr enjoyed the dinner at Spago (another of Wolfgang's creations, read review here) more than he did CUT. Honestly i was more impressed with my first course of Maryland blue crab cake than i was with the steak. I guess it could be due to our expectations. 

Anyhow, definitely go for the crab cake which is chock full of chunky sweet flesh. The basil aioli provided the perfect herby citrusy complement to the crustacean. Jr had the Austrian Oxtail Bouillon with Chervil, Bone Marrow Dumpling which paled in comparison to the robust flavors in the crab cake. 
For mains, well, i can't imagine leaving CUT without trying their steak. A half portion USDA Prime Sirloin Steak is included in the menu and comes with perfectly crisped hand cut fries. Other cuts of meat are offered at a supplementary cost. We felt that the sirloin was more flavorful than the filet mignon. The meats are quite well-seasoned (a little heavy on the salt in fact) and thus there wasn't really a need for further seasoning or sauces. For non-steak eaters (why do you even bother going to CUT if you're not having steak), there are also a mushroom pasta, and a parsley halal young chicken (yes that is how it was labelled) on the menu. You could also make your meal a Surf n Turf with an addition of half Maine lobster if you wish. A choice of side pairs the mains and i would always pick a creamed spinach (it was creamy the way i like it). 

Desserts were spectacular. We loved the warm spiced and crunchy butterscotch apple crumble with soft slices of apples, oats and Tahitian vanilla ice cream. I don't know about you but apple crumble always feels very festive to me, perfect for Christmas!

The praline mascarpone bar, with chocolate chiffon, passionfruit guava sorbet had a mix of textures though i though the chiffon didn't go as well as planned in the bar and its airiness was lost in the overall bite. 


While the wine flight pairing (a white and a red, 90ml each) for $28 seemed like a good deal, the wines aren't that great imo. If you must, the Chablis was better than the Rose and the CS better than the Shiraz. Their cocktails are certainly better. 


So back to this regular dinner at CUT. The food was quite regular but the price was not. Probably would not be back for anything other than their crab cake and fries, plus desserts perhaps.

B1-71, The Shoppes
2 Bayfront Avenue Marina Bay Sands 018972
Available daily 5-6/6.30pm (except Monday, eve of and PH)