Revolver, Bold Woodfire Grill House with Indian influences, Tras Street

Revolver has to be one of the best new restaurants that have opened this year, in the midst of the pandemic no less. You have to admit that they are bold, just like their fiery wood-fired, grill and tandoori offerings made with fresh seasonal ingredients and based on Indian cooking sensibilities. But the boldness works and it's already one of the hardest restaurants to get a booking at.

I was lucky to score a weekend lunch table and had a taste of Chef Saurabh’s revolving menu. While grill houses are commonplace these days, it's rare to find an Indian one like Revolver. 

To complement our 6-course affair ($99), we added a 3-glass wine pairing ($65) for a not too indulgent day-drinking experience.

First, the stuffed courgette flower, filled with a creamy spicy potato mash is first kissed by the fire, and then painted with lemon pickles. The flower maintained its delicate nature and eased us into the meal.

The fresh paneer with coriander pesto has to be the best paneer i've had. The cottage cheese is flown fresh from New Delhi daily and boy that firm tofu texture was kept even though it's finished in the tandoori. I'm not a coriander fan but i mopped up that pesto.

We couldn't help ourselves but to order the Kurobuta pork belly Vindaloo (+$20). Marinated in 5 spices and then grilled and glazed with tamarind pickles, the meat leaned on the sweet side with char siew flavors to it. We expected some heat in the Vindaloo curry sauce to balance the dish but it wasn't spicy at all. Nevertheless, this was very enjoyable.

We enjoyed it more than the Red Snapper with Gunpowder salsa (mix of Indian spices), which was a tad too blackened. Someone needs to watch the fire more closely here.

We thought the Chicken Scotch eggs were a tad out of place on the menu but it was tasty nonetheless. The soft egg was wrapped in a juicy chicken mince and nestled on a crispy nest of fried thin potato strips. The aioli and chili oil definitely helped to spice things up a notch.

Another of our favorite was the Spiced chickpeas with Parmesan Kulchette. Surprisingly, this was the spiciest dish on the menu and the heat was very manageable. Loved the texture and the umami cheesy note to this dish.

To end, the Kulfi Gelato with cardamom spices. It's not as cloying as the traditional dessert but I guess you either like it or you don't.

Come dinner, there are 3 tasting menus to pick from- Discovery Menu ($139), Experience Menu ($199) and Vegetarian Menu ($129). I can't imagine eating more though. Is Revolver worth the hype? It definitely warrants a repeat visit, if i could get a table.

Revolver

56 Tras Street, Singapore 078997

Tue-Sun : 12 - 2.30pm, 6 - 11pm

Tel: +65 6223 2812

Ovenbird- Japanese inspired Omakase, City Gate Bugis

Ovenbird is a family-owned, home-style SG-Japanese fusion restaurant helmed by self-taught Chef Jeffrey Yeo. The one-man show started 2 years ago from his Yishun flat before opening in Mar 2021 at City Gate Bugis and Chef Jeffrey continued to run everything on his own, sometimes with the help of his wife. A seasonal Omakase menu ($130 nett) is served here and Chef Jeffrey calls it 'Ah Beng style Japanese food'. 

 

Since there's only 1 chef/waiter, the courses are served to all diners at once. So please be punctual. While waiting, we started with a Japanese Dasi Ale which Chef recommended. This is definitely a first that we had beer with omakase but it was actually good with our courses. The Chawanmushi with Sake Sujiko, Matsutake trimmings and Shoyuzuke, was first served. The egg custard was deliberately kept plain to go with the creamy marinated salmon roe. 

Then the generous Ah Beng started serving us a whole lot of fish, starting with the Katsuo Tatami- fresh line-caught (bonito). Autumn is the perfect season for bonito as the fish is super fatty. The grated daikon with chili pepper and lemon ponzu helped to cut the richness of the fish.